Noman Sami
CHITRAL / ISLAMABAD
Questions are swirling over a reported summit on Tirich Mir (7,708 meters), the highest peak of the Hindu Kush, after Pakistani mountaineer Abdul Joshi claimed an ascent this past August. While a second expedition led by Sirbaz Khan and Abid Baig has provided documented proof of reaching the peak on August 19, Joshi’s claim is under review by the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) amid ongoing verification challenges and conflicting reports from team members.
Two Expeditions Reported Ascents
During the 2025 summer climbing season, two Pakistani expeditions attempted Tirich Mir. Joshi’s team announced a summit on August 1, while the second team, led by Sirbaz Khan and Abid Baig, reported reaching the summit on August 19 during an expedition supported by the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Culture & Tourism Authority (KP CTA) and the KP government.
Abdul Joshi’s Claim
Joshi, a well-known Pakistani mountaineer, stated that his team — climbers from Shimshal — reached the summit after a long push from Camp 3, fixing ropes up to approximately 7,600 meters. In a phone conversation, he said his account remains consistent with what he shared earlier on social media.
He attributed the lack of extensive documentation to poor weather conditions, explaining that only one team member’s phone was working at the time and a single summit photograph was taken before the descent. Joshi denied allegations published by ExplorersWeb that a team member emailed media outlets raising doubts, asserting no member of his team was involved and that he does not know the source of the email.
Joshi added that he contacted ExplorersWeb for clarification but has not received a response. When asked about GPS data, 360-degree summit images, or video footage, he confirmed such material is not available. He also said he discussed the matter with ACP officials.
Alpine Club of Pakistan: Verification Ongoing
The ACP, Pakistan’s official mountaineering body, is reviewing the matter. Karar Haidri, Vice President, told this reporter that the club is forming a review committee to assess the summit claims. He confirmed the ACP requested summit evidence from Joshi but received no conclusive proof.
At present, the ACP has not formally received a verified summit claim from Joshi’s expedition. In contrast, the claim by Sirbaz Khan and Abid Baig has been formally submitted and documented. Haidri clarified that an August 24, 2025 Instagram post congratulating both expeditions does not constitute official verification. The ACP’s position remains that, without solid evidence, Joshi’s ascent cannot yet be recognized, nor can he be officially titled the first Pakistani to summit Tirich Mir.
Verified Summit by Khan and Baig
Sirbaz Khan and Abid Baig reached the summit on August 19, providing extensive documentation including summit videos, photos with geographical references, and tracking data, according to ExplorersWeb and ACP. Their expedition was administratively led by the KP CTA, which supported the climb as part of its mountaineering and tourism initiatives.
Abid Baig: Reputation Cannot Replace Proof
In a phone interview, Abid Baig, a senior mountaineer and Tirich Mir summiter, described Joshi as a highly skilled and respected climber, but emphasized that in high-altitude mountaineering, reputation alone cannot substitute for verified evidence.
Baig noted that even elite climbers such as Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja and Reinhold Messner have sometimes failed to reach summits. He referenced his own recent unsuccessful attempt on Gasherbrum II (G2), adding that climbers do not claim summits unless they have actually reached the top. He stressed that Tirich Mir is serious and demanding, and any summit claim should be addressed through a formal ACP review process.
KP Tourism Authority Highlights Difficulty
Umar Khan, Director of the KP CTA, said Tirich Mir has seen only a handful of successful ascents despite multiple attempts, with many failing due to weather and technical challenges. He described the mountain as highly demanding, with steep terrain, hard blue ice above 7,000 meters, and a summit push of approximately 1,100 meters, significantly longer than peaks such as K2 or Nanga Parbat.
Khan said that while Joshi’s summit claim remains unverified, reaching approximately 7,500 meters and fixing ropes is a significant effort. The ropes fixed by Joshi’s team were later observed and aided the successful expedition. He also noted that mountaineering is inherently risky, with sudden weather changes often forcing climbers to turn back even after long, costly expeditions.
Developing Story
As of now, Joshi’s summit claim has not been officially recognized, and the ACP’s review committee is expected to examine the matter further. Until a final decision is announced, the claim remains under assessment.
This story will be updated as additional information or official findings become available.
